{"id":883,"date":"2020-07-05T21:31:57","date_gmt":"2020-07-05T19:31:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/deepseareporter.dev.phosdev.se\/?p=883"},"modified":"2024-05-08T13:04:22","modified_gmt":"2024-05-08T11:04:22","slug":"var-hamnar-fangsten","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/deepseareporter.dev.phosdev.se\/sv\/var-hamnar-fangsten\/","title":{"rendered":"Mat p\u00e5 bordet, eller mj\u00f6l \u00e5t djur?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ingenting \u00e4r godare \u00e4n nystekt str\u00f6mming, v\u00e4nd i grovt r\u00e5gmj\u00f6l. Detta \u00e4r ett obestridligt
faktum. Den som tycker annorlunda har fel.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Stekt str\u00f6mming \u00e4r en delikatess. Men idag anses \u00d6stersj\u00f6str\u00f6mmingen inneh\u00e5lla f\u00f6r h\u00f6ga halter av dioxin.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kokt torsk med pepparrot \u00e4r en annan kulinarisk h\u00f6jdare. Eller r\u00f6kt sik, eller stuvad abborre, eller\u2026 det finns s\u00e5 mycket god havsmat, som dessutom \u00e4r nyttig. Men min f\u00e4bless f\u00f6r fisk har i vuxen \u00e5lder st\u00f6rts av larmrapporter om utfiskning och gifter. Min \u00e4lskade \u00f6stersj\u00f6torsk \u00e4r utrotningshotad och f\u00e5r inte l\u00e4ngre f\u00e5ngas, inte ens med min enkla pilk. Min str\u00f6mming och sill anses sedan l\u00e4nge ha f\u00f6r h\u00f6ga doser av dioxin, \u00e4ven om halterna gl\u00e4djande nog sjunker.

Globalt \u00e4r fisken en livsviktig proteink\u00e4lla f\u00f6r miljarder m\u00e4nniskor. Men haven dammsugs p\u00e5 allt st\u00f6rre djup av enorma industritr\u00e5lare och i m\u00e5nga vatten \u00e4r fisken p\u00e5 v\u00e4g att ta slut. Den ers\u00e4tts av odlad fisk, fr\u00e4mst fr\u00e5n Kina. \u00d6ver h\u00e4lften av fisken som konsumeras i v\u00e4rlden kommer fr\u00e5n fiskodlingar, inte minst norska. Debatten om odlingarnas milj\u00f6p\u00e5verkan blir allt hetare. En tredjedel av all fisk som d\u00f6das sl\u00e4ngs \u00f6ver bord eller ruttnar innan den n\u00e5r konsumenten; var tredje f\u00e5ngad fisk d\u00f6das i on\u00f6dan.

Svenskt fiske har sedan urminnes tider f\u00f6rsett oss med god och nyttig mat. Yrkesfiskarnas historiska uppgift har varit att \u00e5ret runt, \u00e4ven i h\u00e5rt v\u00e4der, se till att vi konsumenter bekv\u00e4mt har kunnat k\u00f6pa f\u00e4rsk fisk. Under vardag som fest har fisken haft en central plats p\u00e5 det svenska matbordet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Roland
Roland Pettersson \u00e4r yrkesfiskare. Varje sommar friterar han skarpsill och s\u00e4ljer som \u201dchips\u201d till turister.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Men idag bedrivs inte fisket som f\u00f6r femtio \u00e5r sedan. Sj\u00e4lva begreppet \u201dfiske\u201d har f\u00e5tt en vidare betydelse \u00e4n att f\u00e5nga m\u00e4nniskof\u00f6da. Det handlar mer om att p\u00e5 kortast m\u00f6jliga tid tj\u00e4na mesta m\u00f6jliga pengar p\u00e5 livet i havet, oavsett var f\u00e5ngsten sedan hamnar. De enda \u201dfiskeb\u00e5tar\u201d som idag ser ut ha en framtid \u00e4r gigantiska, h\u00f6gteknologiska industrifartyg. Under 2019 gick 127 miljoner kilo svensk fisk till djurfoder, fr\u00e4mst sill och skarpsill, men \u00e4ven sm\u00e5vuxen torsk.

F\u00f6rra v\u00e5ren \u00e5kte jag med tr\u00e5laren VY 242 Vestland fr\u00e5n Ronehamn p\u00e5 Gotland. Fartyget \u00e4gs och drivs av br\u00f6derna Roland och Bertil Pettersson. N\u00e4r torsken tog slut v\u00e5gade de ta steget att ta bankl\u00e5n, k\u00f6pa en gammal \u00f6sttysk b\u00e5t, rusta upp den och b\u00f6rja med storskaligt fiske. Vestland \u00e4r h\u00e4lften s\u00e5 stor som de gigantiska industrifiskefartygen fr\u00e5n G\u00f6teborg, som helt dominerar svenskt fiske. De ser till att 75 procent, tre av fyra f\u00e5ngade fiskar, mals till fiskmj\u00f6l, som blir mat \u00e5t odlad norsk lax och minkar i bur. De st\u00f6rsta mj\u00f6lfabrikerna finns i Danmark, d\u00e4r man s\u00e4ger sig ha en teknik f\u00f6r att rena fiskmj\u00f6let fr\u00e5n dioxin innan det blir djurfoder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
\u00c4ven Vestland kan fiska f\u00f6r mj\u00f6l- och laxfabrikerna, men f\u00e5ngar helst fisk som \u00e4ts av m\u00e4nniskor.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00c4ven Vestland kan fiska f\u00f6r mj\u00f6l- och laxfabrikerna, men f\u00e5ngar helst fisk som \u00e4ts av m\u00e4nniskor. N\u00e4r jag f\u00f6ljer med jagar vi skarpsill l\u00e4ngs hela Gotlands \u00f6stkust. Vi letar i mer \u00e4n tolv timmar och till sist ser Roland p\u00e5 sina instrument att det finns stora fiskstim vid sandbottnen utanf\u00f6r F\u00e5r\u00f6. Sannolikt skarpsill som \u00e4ter djurplankton.

Tr\u00e5len dras i fem timmar. Klockan tre p\u00e5 natten \u00e4r vi tillbaka i Ronehamn, d\u00e4r det finns en fabrik f\u00f6r mottagning av f\u00e5ngsten. Den h\u00e4r g\u00e5ngen fastnade tio ton i tr\u00e5len, 270 000 sm\u00e5 skarpsillar, som genom en l\u00e5ng, tjock slang pumpas in i fabriken. Men till skillnad fr\u00e5n de allra flesta f\u00e5ngade svenska fiskar ska inte de h\u00e4r skarpsillarna malas ned till mj\u00f6l. De fryses i stora isblock och blir mat \u00e5t m\u00e4nniskor i Estland och Polen, d\u00e4r man till skillnad fr\u00e5n i Sverige g\u00e4rna \u00e4ter den – r\u00f6kt, i olja. Jag har sj\u00e4lv smakat, det \u00e4r gott! Och
nyttigt! Om \u00e4n inte som stekt str\u00f6mming\u2026

Roland Pettersson ger mig \u00e4nnu ett tips: varje sommar friterar han skarpsill och s\u00e4ljer som \u201dchips\u201d. Han s\u00e4ger att produkten \u00e4r popul\u00e4r hos turisterna, men att han inte vet hur chipsen skulle kunna n\u00e5 en st\u00f6rre krets av konsumenter. I Sverige marknadsf\u00f6rs en liten volym kryddad skarpsill som \u201dansjovis\u201d. Under det namnet slinker den ned, varf\u00f6r inte via en kr\u00e4mig Janssons frestelse eller p\u00e5 toppen av en Wienerschnitzel?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Skarpsillen borde \u00e4tas av fler svenskar, d\u00e4r har balter, polacker och ryssar n\u00e5got att l\u00e4ra oss. Fisken blir d\u00e5 direkt en god och nyttig proteink\u00e4lla \u00e5t m\u00e4nniskor, ist\u00e4llet f\u00f6r att f\u00f6rst malas ned i Danmark och transporteras till laxar i Norge. Det finns fler fiskar som duger att \u00e4ta: braxen och m\u00f6rt var en g\u00e5ng vanlig mat i kustsamh\u00e4llena. Idag ratas de, \u00e4ven av mig. Men jag \u00e4r beredd att t\u00e4nka om, om jag f\u00e5r ett bra recept.

I genomsnitt \u00e4ter varje svensk 13 kilo fisk och skaldjur per \u00e5r, en eller tv\u00e5 g\u00e5nger i veckan. Popul\u00e4rast \u00e4r den norska, odlade laxen, d\u00e4refter kommer sill, torsk och r\u00e4kor. Mest fisk \u00e4ter \u00e4ldre, h\u00f6gutbildade m\u00e4n med h\u00f6ga inkomster. Men var tredje svensk \u00e4ter varken fisk eller skaldjur. Alltf\u00f6r m\u00e5nga k\u00f6per i st\u00e4llet dyrt kosttillskott, omega-3-kapslar. Jag f\u00f6rs\u00f6ker f\u00f6rst\u00e5 hur m\u00e4nniskor kan v\u00e4lja konstgjorda kapslar framf\u00f6r f\u00e4rsk fisk.

Som bleking har jag noterat att man i Stockholms skolor har \u201dfisk\u201d p\u00e5 menyn. Man skriver inte vilken sorts fisk barnen erbjuds, bara det obest\u00e4mda \u201dfisk\u201d. Hur lockande \u00e4r det? Vilken inblick i fiskgastronomins underbara v\u00e4rld f\u00e5r v\u00e5rt uppv\u00e4xande sl\u00e4kte n\u00e4r skolan inte visar st\u00f6rre intresse eller kunskap? Det borde vara en uppgift f\u00f6r Folkh\u00e4lsoinstitutet att se till s\u00e5 att varje barn f\u00e5r en chans att smaka v\u00e4lstekt, nyf\u00e5ngad str\u00f6mming med potatismos och lingon. En m\u00e4nsklig r\u00e4ttighet!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

En tredjedel av all fisk som f\u00e5ngas sl\u00e4ngs \u00f6ver bord eller ruttnar innan den n\u00e5r konsumenten – var tredje fisk d\u00f6das i on\u00f6dan<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":880,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[602],"tags":[236,298,962,570,726,587,234],"class_list":["post-883","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kronikor","tag-fiske","tag-fiskmjol","tag-kronika","tag-ostersjon","tag-sill","tag-stromming","tag-torsk"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMat p\u00e5 bordet, eller mj\u00f6l \u00e5t djur? - Deep Sea Reporter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"noindex, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"sv_SE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Mat p\u00e5 bordet, eller mj\u00f6l \u00e5t djur? 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